Breeding Master Guide 🥚

Behemoth:
🍁 When breeding behemoths, the offspring will be rolled from the opposite parent. Example: A Goober and a Hydra will always have Goober babies (with the exception of a demi spawn)
🍁 If you're breeding 2 behemoths together, the baby will default to regular Snakekey (with the exception of a demi spawn)
🍁 Breedings involving behemoths have a 1 in 15 chance to spawn their respective demi
🍁 When breeding a behemoth with a mix, it's possible to pull that mix type or either pure outcome. Example: You breed a Hydra and a Molten Mix (Shiny/Goober). The babies could be a Molten Mix, Shiny, or Goober
🍁 Behemoths' offspring will be able to pick a max of 2 upgrades from the behemoth parent's (/parents') blessing pool. Note this can give them 2 upgrades, but not 4
🍁 A baby bred from 2 behemoth parents can be double-blessed. Example: You breed a Hydra and a Fenris behemoth. The baby is a regular, but may be Hydra and/or Fenris blessed. This does not give them more blessing upgrades, but does allow them to take from either/both of the behemoth parents' blessing pools
🍁 When submitting a blessed child for approval, the "type" field will have "(Behemoth type) blessed" in front of it. For example: Type: Fenris Blessed Fawnette
🍁 A keke with a behemoth blessing cannot pass the title down to their offspring. If you have a "Hydra-blessed regular" the "Hydra-blessed" bit will only stick to that keke. They can still pass behemoth blessing upgrades as usual, though

Demi and Gamma:
🌠 Demis/gammas can only breed with their own kind. For example, a Prism Demi could breed with another Prism Demi, but not an Automaton Demi
🌠 Gammas obtained with a non-PC creature must be bred from the opposite parent. For example: a Tultul. Regular Wistuls are not PCs, so you'd have to blind breed a Crested Wistul for a chance at a Tultul
🌠 Like demis, gammas have a 1 in 15 chance to spawn in every breeding with a relevant parent
🌠 Occasionally, you may have a pairing capable of spawning both a demi and a gamma (or two different types of gammas, etc...). In these instances, you'll have an equal chance of getting either one upon getting a successful demi/gamma spawn!

PC:
🍈 Only adult PCs are able to breed
🍈 Only certain PCs are compatible. Make sure you check compatibility below before breeding!
🍈 Each PC's breeding cooldown time will be located in their section below
🍈 Offspring will have an equal chance of being either parent's type or a hybrid of both if possible
🍈 Hybrid offspring cannot breed to create even-more-hybridized offspring. More detail on this in the "hybrid specific" tab above
🍈 Submit breeding art to the folder Egg Creation (even if you're not...making an actual egg, it's okay)

Beta:
🍠 Only adult betas are able to breed
🍠 Betas can breed with many other character types, but not all combinations are possible! Make sure you check compatibility before breeding
🍠 Offspring will have an equal chance of being either parent's type or a combination of both in the form of a tertiary (Beta/PC) or congo (Beta/Beta or Beta/keke) if possible
🍠 Betas can only breed with Snakekey types (subspecies, mixes, behemoths, etc) if their species base is able to. Example: A Cumbfake could not breed with a Snakekey because a Crumf is a Fakekey beta. Fakekeys cannot breed with Snakekeys, so their betas cannot either
🍠 Hybrids can breed with betas as long as the hybrid is at least one part of the beta's species base! Example: A Quilltul (Quillrend/Crestul) could breed with a Giant Wistul, as they both have a Wistul/Crestul base. On the other hand, an Hgrib (Xilgenaut/Gribbon) couldn't breed with a Giant Wistul since the Giant is neither a Xil nor a Grib beta
🍠 The above rule works for tertiary/beta breedings and congo/beta breedings as well. In general: can a beta breed with it? Uhhhh, probably, yea
🍠 Take a beta's breeding cooldown time from its species base. Example: A Sippin is a Gribbon beta. The Gribbon cooldown is 4 weeks. Thus, the Sippin cooldown is also 4 weeks
🍠 Litter sizes will match those of the species base

Hybrid:
🌸 Hybrids can breed with anything that has one of their types in it. That is to say a Hisstul (Fake/Crestul) could breed with a HFake (Fake/Gribbon) because they both are part Fake. A Hisstul would not be compatible with a Hkey (Gribbon/keke), as a Hkey is not part Fake nor Crestul
🌸 Hybrids can breed with betas as long as the hybrid is at least one part of the beta's species base! Example: A Quilltul (Quillrend/Crestul) could breed with a Giant Wistul, as  they both have a Wistul/Crestul base. On the other hand, an Hgrib (Xilgenaut/Gribbon) couldn't breed with a Giant Wistul since the Giant is neither a Xil nor a Grib beta
🌸 A hybrid pairing can pull a pure keke/PC if both parents are part that keke/PC. For example, a Hisstul (Fake/Crestul) and a HFake (Fake/Gribbon) breeding could result in a Hisstul, HFake, or a Fakekey, since both parents are part Fake. It could not pull a Crestul or a Gribbon, as only one parent is part Crestul and one is part Gribbon
🌸 If a hybrid is bred, the litter size will be determined by the other parent. Example: you breed an Hkeke (Gribbon/keke) with a regular keke. Kekes can have 2 eggs max, so the breeding could result in 1-2 eggs.
🌸 If a hybrid is bred to a hybrid, the clutch/litter size will be determined by their common species. Example: you breed a Hisstul (Fake/Crestul) and a HFake (Fake/Gribbon). Both are part Fake and Fakes can have a max of 1 newborn per litter. So, this pairing could have a max of 1 newborn
🌸 If a hybrid is breed to the same kind of hybrid (eg a Hfake to a Hfake), the clutch/litter size will be the same as that of the PC/keke combination required to make that hybrid. Example: You breed a Quillkey (Fake/Quill) to another Quillkey. When a Fake and a Quill breed, they can have 1-2 offspring. Thusly, these hybrid parents can have 1-2 offspring!
🌸 A hybrid's breeding cooldown will be determined by the species it's made up of. Add together the parents' breeding cooldowns and then divide them by 2 to get the hybrid's cooldown. Example: a Hkey. The parent species would be a Gribbon with a 4 week cooldown and a Snakekey with a 2 week cooldown. You add these together for 6 weeks and divide them by 2 for a total cooldown of 3 weeks!
🌸 If a hybrid is made up of two species with the same breeding cooldown (ie a HFake, as Gribbons and Fakes both have a 4 week cooldown), then the hybrid will have the same cooldown (ie, also 4 weeks in this case)
🌸 Hybrids can make demis and gammas, but are otherwise unable to generate "more mixed" offspring

Misc:
🍉 If a character has been Skytouched by a Shive they can pass on the Touch to their offspring, though it's fairly rare with a 1 in 15 chance
🍉 Keke types with breeds, such as Zeniths, Equinoxes, Pondskippers, and Elementals do not produce specific offspring. That is to say, their children will be any breed that is available to them at the time of hatching instead of the parents' breeds! (Eg if you bred 2 Flicker Elementals, the result would be 1-2 Neutral Elemental eggs)

Tertiary:
🎈 Ters can breed with Snakekey types if they are at least one part of a PC/beta that can. Example: A (Glowis Maxima/Frilled Wistul) could breed with kekes because Glowies can
🎈 Hybrids can breed with tertiaries as long as they each share one species base in common! Example 1: A (Quillrend/Giant Wistul) ter could breed with and Hquill (Grib/Quill) because each parent is one part Quill. Example 2: A (Crumbfake/Crestul) ter could breed with a Nautekey (Xil/Fake) hybrid because the Nautekey is part Fake. The Crumbfake is a Fakekey beta, making these two compatible
🎈 The rule above also applies to congo/tertiary breedings
🎈 In tertiary breedings, the clutch/litter size will be determined by the common species. If applicable, this should be applied on the beta level first. If not, revert to the species base's level. Example 1: You're breeding a (Glowis Maxima/Giant Wistul) and a (Fakekey/Giant Wistul). Each parent is part Giant, so this is the common species. Use the Giant's max clutch size. Example 2: You're breeding a (Tadpole Wistul/Frilled Wistul) and a (Fakekey/Giant Wistul). There isn't a common species here, but this pairing is still compatible due to each parent being part Crestul beta. Use the Crestul max clutch size (1-2) for this pairing
🎈 If there are two common species, fight for dominance [I still have to figure out how this will work,,,]
🎈 A tertiary's breeding cooldown is determined by the base species it's made of. Add together the parents' breeding cooldowns then divide them by 2 to get the ter's cooldown. Example: A (Giant Wistul/Fake). The Gaint is a Crestul beta. Tuls have a cooldown of 2 weeks. Fakes take 4 weeks. Together, this makes 6 weeks. Divide by 2 and you get your total cooldown of 3 weeks!
🎈 If a ter is made up of two species with the same breeding cooldown (eg a [Sippin/Fake] as Gribbons and Fakes both have a 4 week cooldown), then the tertiary will have the same cooldown (ie, also 4 weeks in this case)
🎈 Ters can make demis and gammas, but are otherwise unable to generate "more mixed" offspring

Congo:
🥝 Congos can breed with Snakekey types if they are at least one part Snakekey themselves. Alternatively, they can breed with keke types if they are at  least one part of a beta whose species base can. Example: A congo who is part Sippin could breed with keke just fine because a Sippin is a Gribbon beta. Gribbons can breed with keke
🥝 Congo/hybrid and congo/tertiary breeding rules are the same as the tertiary/hybrid rules in the above section. Also use the ter rules for determining clutch/litter size and breeding cooldown. These two types of characters work very similarly!

Flipper:
🧶 At any point in a breeding where making a mix is possible, it has a 1 in 15 chance to spawn as a flipper instead
🧶 Breeding a flipper with a flipper does not increase your chances of getting flipper offspring. They'll often roll as mixes instead!
🧶 Flippers work much the same as mixes do for most breeding functions
🧶 Flippers can make demis and gammas, but otherwise cannot generate "more mixed" offspring

Spinner:
🪀 At any point in a breeding where making a hybrid is possible, it has a 1 in 15 chance to spawn as a spinner instead
🪀 Breeding a spinner with a spinner does not increase your chances of getting spinner offspring. They'll often roll as hybrids instead!
🪀 Spinners work much the same as hybrids do for most breeding functions
🪀 Determine a spinner's breeding cooldown/max litter size the same way you would for the hybrid of the same parent combination - it does not change
🪀 Spinners can make demis and gammas, but otherwise cannot generate "more mixed" offspring

Omega:
🎨 Omegas cannot be rolled in breedings without a vial of blood (unless one of the parents is already an omega)
🎨 Omegas from different universes (such as THMFU) cannot be rolled in breedings without magicked plasma (unless one of the parents is already an omega)
🎨 PCs and kekes have a chance to produce omegas in blind breedings, but only if a vial of blood/magicked plasma is provided or the other parent rolls as an omega. Note that providing blood/plasma does not guarantee an omega-compatible pairing!
🎨 Follow the hybrid rules for determining an omega's litter size/breeding cooldown
🎨 Omegas are unable to generate "more mixed" offspring aside from demis and gammas

I need to remove this, sweats

🌲 Molding > Newborns need a starting point to form from. Parents will sculpt a tiny Fakekey shape out of mud, clay, or whatever they have on hand. Thankfully, it doesn't matter how wonky the little guy looks - it'll get fixed up later. The maximum litter size for Fakes is only ever one, so there's no need to make any extras (unless you totally squish your first mud baby)
🌲 Aura Infusion > Step two is to make sure that baby confuses any snake within the nearest mile! Fakes admittedly cheated here. They stole the rune that Snakekeys use on their eggs. Once drawn on, all the parents need to do is linger around the mold for a while so that their own auras power up the little one's. They can tell once it starts working when wonkier carved mud babies will become photorealistic
🌲 Guarding > Slowly, but surely, color will bleed into the shape of the newborn and it will start to noticeably breathe. It can take quite a while before it's able to stand, heaven forbid walk and see. Parents will need to guard the vulnerable little thing from any greedy passers by until it's able to move and function reliably...

🌱 Fakekeys can only breed once every four weeks!
🌱 Litters can have a max of 1 infant
🌱 Fakes cannot pull the following clutch upgrades: triplets, quintuplets, scaleless, cleft scales

🌲 Preparation > Gribbons don't use that silly rune to spawn babies in. No, they use a different symbol that only they know about! (Disclaimer: this is no longer true, but they knew about it first and it only works for them, so ha). This symbol is generally drawn on or carved the ground, large and grandiose. A big symbol isn't required, but Gribbons are pretty sure it gives you better results. Maybe.
🌲 Theft > Snakekeys are a bit more efficient with this whole baby thing. Their belly scale energy and all that really gets things moving along, so most Gribbons will prowl the streets, absorbing the power from passersby and then returning to their symbol to deposit it there. Of course, they could do this themselves with their illusionary magic, but unless you want to be exhausted all the time and be waiting for a year, this is the way to go
🌲 Conjuring > Once it's fully powered up, it's time to decorate the symbol to appease who it's directed to. Gribbons will lace the area with flowers, pretty rocks, and generally whatever they think looks nice. You can stop decorating when you come back to find your litter in the center of the symbol

🌱 Gribbons can only breed once every four weeks!
🌱 Litters can have 1-3 infants
🌱 Gribbons cannot pull the following clutch upgrades: segmented eyes, toothless, finless, crunch fin, blur blindness, scaleless, cleft scales

🌲 Searching > Crestul babies are fully aquatic, so the first thing that parents need to do is find a nice, wet place to plant them in. They'll need a fairly protected location, but also somewhere that's large enough for the pups to swim around and swampy enough to provide them with food to eat
🌲 Sowing > Once the location's settled, the parents will make little rows of dirt beneath the water. Imagine planting seeds, except there...aren't any seeds. The little mud hills they make will need to be large enough to fit a baby into, but small enough that they're still fully submerged. Depended on how many little ones the couple is looking for, they'll make one or two mounds
🌲 Sleeping > Parents will sleep on top of the rows they created, touching as much as the dirt as possible with their belly scales. They may also just lie there in their free time, too. This apparently transfers their belly scale powers directly to the mud and, soon enough, the pups will emerge!

🌱 Crestuls can breed once every two weeks!
🌱 Clutches can have 1-2 pups
🌱 Crestuls cannot pull the following clutch upgrades: third pouch, split ends, toothless, finless, crunch fin, hairless

🌲 Warming > There's one quill on every Quillrend's tail that's different from the others. It has the ability to form pups! Of course, this doesn't happen all on its own. Whichever Quill that isn't using their breeding quill can get the ball rolling with a process they call "heartwarming". The warmer will lie with their chest over the other's tail, being very careful not to get pricked. If they do it right, the quill will soon seem to begin mimicking their heartbeat, signifying the start of a puppy forming. Because of the way this works, at least one Quill in a pairing will need to have a tail with a usable breeding quill, else they cannot reproduce
🌲 Forming > Once it's all heartwarmed up, the breeding quill will start to grow over the next few days. It'll reach about 6-10 inches long, becoming more papery in texture like a cocoon. After that, it'll detach from the tail and fall to the ground. Parents have to be very careful not to lose the little thing while out minding their own business! Thankfully, a Quill can usually feel the cocoon fall off
🌲 Hatching > After it's fallen, the cocoon will slowly divide itself over the next few days. It can split up to five times for a total of six babies! Once they're done doing that, the material they're made of will gradually grow thinner and more brittle, which may allow for a blurry peek inside at the pups. Once the outer shell is weak enough, the puppies inside will break free and hatch

🌱 Quillrends can only breed once every 4 weeks
🌱 Litters can have 1-6 puppies
🌱 Note: Quillrend breeding has a special requirement: at least one parent must have a tail with at least 1 quill on it to breed (unless the breeding quill has been moved elsewhere)
🌱 Quills cannot pull the following upgrades: third pouch, finless, crunch fin, half pouch, reversed scales, scaleless, cleft scales

🌲 Searching > The first step is to find something for the baby to go in. While Glowies tend to pick stones for their eggs since they're usually abundant, they can use anything inanimate. Depending on their intended clutch size, the parents will seek out 1 to 6 items. Things they can carry are advised, but not required
🌲 Charging > Next, the parents will create spirits to go inside their "eggs". This is done by rubbing their magic gems together (usually on their tails) like they're trying to create the static shock of a lifetime. You can tell it's working, as the spirits will become visible inside their gems!
🌲 Infusing > Once the spirits are made, they'll need to be transported to the eggs where they can develop into little chicks. This is easy - press and hold one's powered up gem against the intended egg and wait a few moments. The spirit will fade away, taking up its new home! It's important to note that this needs to be done right away. If parents wander around with charged gems, they could mistakenly send a spirit into an unintended "egg" and maybe even lose track of it! Once the spirit is planted, it'll form a hollow inside its "egg" large enough for the baby to grow. The inside of the egg will transform into having a geode-like appearance with newly hatched Glowies emerging from a bed of crystal

🌱 Glowies can only breed once every 4 weeks
🌱 Clutches can have 1-6 eggs
🌱 Glowies cannot pull the following upgrades: third pouch, cleft scales, toothless, finless, crunch fin, half pouch, reversed scales, scaleless

🌲 Interacting > Whoa, whoa, whoa. You're not making premarital eye contact over there, are you? Shive are very, very proper and thusly it would be simply obscene to not get to know someone before you do something crazy...!
🌲 Chivalry > The next step is to, well...uh... okay, it's basically the same as the first step. You can't possibly have kits without taking your partner to dinner first or something, gosh!!! At least be decent....
🌲 Calculating > An important thing to consider is what two Shive are going to make when combined (see below). Some results need to be contained, like the liquids, while others may be perfectly fine on their own. Even then, it's common practice to set up an area for the new droplet/stone (with varying amounts of ornamentation and cutesy-ness depending on how into this you are). These things start out small! Don't be a dunce and lose an oil droplet in the floorboards

🌱 Shive can only breed once every 4 weeks
🌱 Litters can have 1-5 kits
🌱 Shive can't breed with Susie species, but they can apply Skytouch
🌱 Royalty horns pass to kits as so: two royal parents have a 100% chance of royal kits. One royal parent has a 1 out of 5 chance to pass. Non-royal parents have a 3 out of 100 chance to randomly have a royal baby
🌱 Shive cannot pull the following upgrades: third pouch, mosaic scales, clone scales, furry fin, cleft scales, finless, crunch fin, half pouch, reversed scales, scaleless

Shives' breeding is fairly unique with their possible combination of sexes. The majority of them are able to combine successfully, but if there's a hitch it's quite easy to get it resolved. Shives have long since decided not being able to have children if you want them is super lame! Thus fixing a problem or even making an easier-to-handle combination is as simple as running to the metaphorical drug store.
The following details possible 2x2 combinations made with a liquid produced from Shives' torsos. While said 'liquid' should not be confused for milk - it doesn't come from there - it's also not like...sexy. It's more akin to sweat, if we're being honest here. Shives however, are very prudish and will be as flustered as if it were something more risqué

Shiny: Produce a viscous liquid coagulant, referred to as 'amber' for its similar color. (Note: using the word 'amber' in this sense is considered quite crude, like the difference between dam and d*mn)
Matte: Produce a shiny silver liquid that functions akin to an anticoagulant, making fluids it comes in contact with less viscous
Gleam: Produce a clear, sharp-smelling liquid that doesn't have any special properties of its own, but can function as a base for offspring to form
Glossy: Produce a pale blue liquid that begins quickly hardening after a few minutes, turning to small, gem-like stones
_______________________________________________________________

Shiny/Shiny: Results in a thick, sticky liquid dark amber in color. Overall, it bears resemblance to tree sap. It can be hung from twigs like cocoons until it becomes too heavy due to baby growth
Shiny/Matte: A shimmering, copper-colored liquid with roughly the same consistency as brown gravy. Due to runniness, it should be held in a container while kits develop
Shiny/Gleam: A pale purple drop with a consistency like room temperature maple syrup. Advised to be kept in a container while kits develop
Shiny/Glossy: Liquid hardens into a jagged bit of rock that looks a lot like shale, though more orange in color. Despite its appearance, it's very tough with a Mohs hardness of 7

Matte/Matte: A shiny silver drop with the consistency of water. Should be kept in a container in a safe place, as it can have very dangerous effects if exposed to open wounds due to its extreme anti-clotting effect
Matte/Gleam: A slippery, runny liquid akin to oil and with a smell that reminds one of wood cleaner. Should be kept in a container while kits develop lest it slips away!
Matte/Glossy: Hardens into a smooth, flat stone pale blue in color that seems to shimmer beneath the surface. Compresses like memory foam if prodded

Gleam/Gleam: Produces a liquid that smells staggeringly strong, but doesn't...do anything. Requires external supplements to produce offspring (breedings will auto-assume this has been done)
Gleam/Glossy: Liquid hardens into a semi-transparent, blue stone that develops crystal-like spikes. It is not especially hard and can be broken with some ease, so it should be kept in a safe place during development

Glossy/Glossy: Liquid hardens into an opaque, sky blue stone. Incredibly hard and compact, with a Mohs hardness of 9

🌲 Feeding > Xils have an organ, akin to a stomach and usually dormant, that is used for the formation of offspring. In order to reroute energy to the thing so it actually works, they'll need to eat a bit of extra food. Not much is required overall since both parents will be contributing. Just have a little snackie for the baby now and then!
🌲 Brooding > After the proper amount of snack(ies) has been snacked upon, a chemical process will begin. This turns the eaten food into the material needed to "craft" future infants, but this doesn't happen overnight! A Xil will have to wait a couple weeks for this to complete. Unfortunately, said process has the side effect of making one quite irritable and lethargic. Parents to-be will usually find a nice, small place to be cranky in and generally not move until the ordeal is over. Think: brooding chicken
🌲 Sculpting > Once their mood lightens parents will be ready for the final step! The food they ate much earlier has been converted into a muddy substance, used for shaping a cocoon. This will be drawn up (not regurgitated!) to be spat on the ground and molded into a hollow, (American) football-shaped case. Both parents must help make the case, as one made by a single Xil will just...not do anything. Afterwards, this will need to dry for several days and then sit for a couple months. Soon after this, little tiny Xils will hatch from the case, ready to explore the world!

🌱 Xilgenauts can only breed once every four weeks!
🌱 Clutches can have of a minimum of 3, max of 6 infants
🌱 Xils cannot pull the following clutch upgrades: soft paws, mosaic scales, third pouch, clone scales, furry fin, cleft scales, finless, crunch fin, half pouch, lil beans, reversed scales, divot paws, scaleless

[]

🌲 Searching > Being amphibious, Mudfins need to be at least close to water their whole lives. Babies are no exception! Parents will need to find a nice place to raise their offspring, preferably with lots of places to hide, vegetation to eat, and water to soak in
🌲 Sowing > Once a suitably damp place has been found, Muffins will create mud rows near the water, but not beneath it. That'd complicate the newborn's lives a little bit if they had to worry about not drowning right away. These rows need to be large enough for the baby to fit inside, but not so large that they draw predator attention. Depending on how many babies a couple is looking for, they'll make one or two mounds
🌲 Steaming > After the mud rows have been sown, a Muffin will lie atop it, touching it with their belly scales. Rather than just chilling out there to charge up the rows like Crestuls do, Mudfins will begin to emit a vapor from beneath their belly scales. This vapor needs to seep into the mud, which is a bit difficult for it to do considering it floats up! Parents will need to linger intermittently atop the mounds until enough of the mist has sunk into the soil, which will take several days. They'll know when they're done because the babies will start to emerge!

🌱 Muffins can breed once every two weeks!
🌱 Clutches can have 1-2 pups
🌱 Muffins cannot pull the following clutch upgrades: third pouch, split ends, toothless, finless, crunch fin, hairless

[]

🌲 Handholding > In order to get the breeding process started, Cattlepedes first need to charge up an energy by "holding paws" with each other. This really only has to be the first set of paws, but some pedes will do many more sets just because it feels right! They'll have to do this for a couple sessions, but each time, they'll walk away with their little toe beans being slightly glowier
🌲 Hunting > Once a Cattle's paws have begun to glow so much that their beans appear white, it's time to get a vessel for that energy! Since they're genetically part Snakekey, this vessel needs to be a rock. The couple will go out hunting for one of ideal size and shape before returning with it to their home or otherwise nesting site. They may do this two more times depending on how large of a clutch they hope for
🌲 Howling > Once the eggs-to-be have been chosen, the next part of the process is quite short! Both parents will lay their charged paws on the stone and then yowl dramatically. They must actually vocalize, as the spell they're casting needs spoken word to channel it. Thankfully, the spell seems to provide mercy for the mute and gives them a pass as long as they've got the spirit. During the cry, there will be a large, fancy flash of light and the glow from the parents' paws will flow into the stones. Then, all that's left is to incubate them as they slowly shift into eggs and wait for them to hatch!

🌱 Cattlepeds can breed once every four weeks!
🌱 Clutches can have 1-3 kits
🌱 Cattlepedes cannot pull the following clutch upgrades: #

[]

🌲 Spitting > Phyoggs have a special set of glands in their throats that makes a sludge-like liquid when it's time to get nesting. Both parents will work together to accumulate a lump of this goop, both so that they don't have to work as hard and so they don't have to worry about the stuff drying out - because it will if they don't work quick enough...! It's advised to pursue this slimy process in a cool, damp environment to avoid being stressed for time
🌲 Shaping > Once enough material for one or two eggs (depending on how many pups are desired) has been collected, the parents will then need to sculpt the sludge into egg shapes. These need to be large enough to hold the baby that will form inside later. Once the shapes are completed, the Snakekey breeding rune should either be carved into or drawn on their surface
🌲 Soaking > After the rune(s) are drawn up, the process of converting from hardening slime into eggshell will begin! This may take a couple weeks to mere hours - it just depends on the egg. Once the shell is most certainly shell, the egg should be placed into shallow water to allow it to soak. This, like in keke, allows the egg to soften enough for the baby inside to break free

🌱 Pyoggs can breed once every four weeks!
🌱 Clutches can have 1-2 pups
🌱 Pyoggs cannot pull the following clutch upgrades: #

[]

🌲 Shedding > Scratties undergo a hormonal change when it's time to have babies that causes some of their mane hair to fall out over time. This fluff will need to be collected as it's shed because it's needed to make a special nest that makes the rest of the breeding process work! This can be kind of annoying, though - having to clean up after yourself wherever you go... Some Scratties will just cut their hair off deliberately and deal with a bald spot instead
🌲 Nesting > Once enough hair has been gathered, the Scratty parents will need to weave themselves a nest in which to keep their pups-to-be. How this nest is made varies from couple to couple. Some are intricately woven while others are haphazardly heaped together. The important thing is that the nest contains fluff from both parents
🌲 Collecting > Due to their Snakekey genes, Scratties partially reproduce with the aid of rocks. After the nest is done, they'll need to go gather some good-sized pebbles and place them inside the nest. After this, the stones can technically be left alone until they turn into eggs and hatch, but most parents prefer to roost atop them instead! Scratties will often take turns brooding in their huge, puffy nest with the other parent taking care of them until it's their turn to sit

🌱 Scratties can breed once every four weeks!
🌱 Clutches can have 1-4 pups
🌱 Scratties cannot pull the following clutch upgrades: #

a

[]

🌲 Dance: A pair of Shenbies will show that they like each other by doing a little dance together. This process involves many twists and turns wherein the dancers will generally match each other's moves. Dancing charges up a special energy that is vital to the rest of the nit-making process
🌲 Nit: Once the dance is done, the parents-to-be will need to craft the shell for their nit. This can be made out of rock, clay, mud, wood, or sand. The Shenbies will work together to form their nit, which transfers their dance-energy into the shell. This is part of what makes the babies inside form! It's easy to tell when a nit has enough energy stored up inside it to move to the next step because its outside will develop a strong, white silk
🌲 Nest: Nits will absolutely not develop without being in a soft, comfy nest! Parents will need to spend time assembling the perfect cushion on which to rest their baby-to-be. Once the nest is complete, the special energy the nit contains will partially transfer into the nest, making it part of the whole process. After sitting atop its special bed for some time, the nit will eventually hatch, releasing little Shenbies into the world

🌱 Shenbies can only breed once every two weeks!
🌱 Litters can have 1-3 nits
🌱 Shenbies cannot pull the following clutch upgrades: toothless, finless, crunch fin, scaleless, cleft scales

c

d

e

f